Η οικονομική κρίση συνεχίζεται, στη χώρα που τη γέννησε, με επιπτώσεις (όπως όλες οι κρίσεις) κυρίως στους πολύ ισχυρούς και τους πλέον ανίσχυρους, σε μια κοινωνία ώριμου καπιταλισμού, όπου ούτως ή άλλως η μεσαία τάξη δηλώνει – και είναι – προς εξαφάνιση.
Ο κόσμος της μόδας δεν θα μπορούσε να μείνει έξω από αυτήν την ιστορία, με συνέπειες που ξεκινούν από
- την καταγεγραμμένη μείωση κερδών σε Revlon, Ralph Lawren, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfinger και πολλούς πολλούς ακόμη
- και τις τεχνικές μείωσης κόστους των οίκων μόδας, από την προφανή μείωση προσωπικού, έως τη χρήση οικονομικότερων υφασμάτων, την διακοπή συμβολαίων με ακριβά μοντέλα, την μείωση του διαφημιστικού προϋπολογισμού, έως την πλήρη απουσία από την εβδομάδα μόδας στο fashion show της Νέας Υόρκης.
Feb. 13 (Bloomberg) — As 64 couturiers head into New York Fashion Week, sobered designers plan to slash prices and offer practical clothes in more subdued colors and with fewer flourishes. Their efforts to avert deep losses and bankruptcies may produce some compelling fashion that is easier on the wallet.
…This comes exactly one month after the announcement that Donna Karan Collection would forego a model-fronted ad campaign in favor of “re-interpreting” her runway images and that DKNY’s ads will no longer feature Vlada, an established model, but it-girl Harley Viera Newton. So when you throw it all together, it appears as though Donna’s brands are making some major cuts obvious to the outside world – so who knows what’s happening behind the scenes. Unless of course she’s just being overly cautious, which might not be the worst thing.
Vera Wang Bows Out of February’s Fashion Week Tent
High profile designer Vera Wang has decided not to stage a pricey runway show at the fashion week tents in New York in February as part of what could be an exodus of American designers from the official fashion week venue.
Ms. Wang, who will hold a low key event at her boutique in Manhattan’s Soho district instead, is the most prominent designer to drop out of the shows. Earlier this week, designers Betsey Johnson and Carmen Marc Valvo said they would forgo the lavish runway productions which can cost up to $500,000 but provide important publicity to the labels.
“We feel that the intimacy of a smaller venue will be the perfect backdrop for the collection and is an appropriate statement for the times,” Ms. Wang said in a statement. The show, which will take place at 9 a.m. February 19 at her 2,500 square-foot retail store, will feature a guest list of just 100 to 150, down from the usual 900 Ms. Wang invites.
- το downsizing με τα γνωστά θύματα της μακροχρόνιας ανεργείας
Marks & Spencer to Cut 1,230 Jobs (WWD)
Marks & Spencer’s chairman expects its “gross profit margin to be 1.75 percentage points lower than the previous year,” and plans to cut 1,230 jobs.
- το κλείσιμο εργοστασίων σε Ευρώπη και Αμερική,
- τις απολύσεις CEOs και των προσλήψεων νέων στην θέση τους που καλούνται να κάνουν ένα θαύμα (με λιγότερο παχηλές αμοιβές)
- την απουσία των ευρωπαϊκών περιοδικών στα fashion shows στις Ηνωμένες Πολιτείες
NEW YORK, United States — From the moment that I landed here in New York, the mood has been decidedly sombre. I bumped into a buyer from a major London fashion boutique at the baggage carousel at JFK who told me that “nobody is coming” to New York this time from the major UK fashion magazines. Budgets have been completely slashed.
και ΤΕΛΙΚΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΗΛΩΣΗ ΧΡΕΩΚΟΠΙΑΣ από μερικούς από τους σημαντικότερους οίκους μόδας (FENDI, FERRE, MORGAN) που αναζητούν διακαώς να εξαγοραστούν από άλλες εταιρίες για να διασφαλίσουν ένα μέλλον, ή ακόμη και την κρατική ενίσχυση! (βλέπε Ιταλία)
French fashion retailer Morgan files for bankruptcy
One of the most recent names on that list is that of MORGAN, the French retailer who has stores in 57 countries. The 40 year old company hit its peak of popularity in the 90s and had several celebrities modelling in its advertising campaigns including Mischa Barton, David Ginola and Carla Bruni. The company is hopeful for a swift take over but that remains to be seen.
The parent company of Gianfranco Ferre and Malo, IT HOLDING, is currently negotiating a partnership deal with a Chinese investor to help bolster their finances while Chanel have just announced that they will be axing 200 jobs in Paris. This latest news has come amidst recent concerns for the luxury label following the decision to cancel all planed events for the touring museum ‘Mobile Art’. Although the labels designer, Carl Lagerferd, said that this was an artistic choice.
Italian fashion labels have been holding emergency talks with the Italian government in a bid to support the industry and lessen the effects of the slow down. But many of the big labels have had to launch more affordable lines in an effort to get consumers to open their wallets. “We can no longer just wait for customers to come into the shop” said Michele Norsa of Salvatore Ferragamo.Two of the main names in New York fashion week, Vera Wang and Betsey Johnson, have recently announced that they will not be showing their Fall 2009 collections in February due to the economic down turn. This is a move that is likely to be followed by many labels as shows cost thousands of dollars to put on. Industry experts have been commenting on the likelihood of smaller, more reserved shows this season following the trend that was set in September by many designers. It also appeared that the designs were affected by the economic crisis at many shows with minimalist lines and quiet colors.But it’s not all doom and gloom – there are now lots of bargains to be found (including 40% off Prada in its Milan stores!!) As companies try to lure the consumer back to the check out, shoppers may find that 2009 will be the year of spending power. Many companies will be focusing on classic pieces with a longer shelf life and the predictions for the 2009 trends indicate that we will be able to wear pieces from a few seasons ago again!